11/3/03

North Carolinian barbecue (part 1)

Last summer we went to New Bern, birthplace of Pepsi, and they had some nice eateries there, if expensive. Pepsi tasted same there as everywhere else.

Along the way we tried a few barbecue joints. King's Barbecue was an improvement over the cue we eat in our little town here. They served it on buffet on a bed of its own skin, crisped and laid whole on the table. If you dig down to where the meat is marinating on the skin's underfat, it's very juicy indeed.

Moore's Old Tyme Barbecue in New Bern had even better cue, cooked (at least partly) over coals. That was a revelation; North Carolinian cue for me was usually the vinegary Smithfield's. There's a place here called Fuller's with a buffet, but it's finely chopped almost into threads, and you got to dig in for the juicier meat (Fuller's okra deep-fried in fatback, however, was to die for, sweet, crisp, and salty).

On the way back from New Bern we dropped by Goldsboro. Tried McCall's and  loved the succulent deep-fried scallops the size of a gold doubloon (why is seafood always deep-fried around here?), tried the cue ordered from the kitchen, not off the buffet, and it was even better than Moore's, fully pit-cooked, juicy and rough-chopped.

Then we dropped by this place called Wilber's. Not far from McCall's--I'd say a few hundred feet down and across the road. Small rooms, nothing big like in McCall's, and the meat I ordered hardly tasted like it had sauce at all. But it was delicious--pit-cooked smoky, buttery-fat, mixed with deliciously crisp brown edges, or outside-brown I think they're called. Add the sauce (I bought a bottle) and it's perfect, peppery and tart to the tongue.

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