North Carolinian Barbecue (Part 3)

Allen & Son's at Chapel Hill has pork shoulders cooked slow over hickory logs and hand chopped and it's so good it'll make you swear off vegetables forever. Intense hickory-smoke flavor, with the meat just dripping with fat, it's in the same league as Wilber's in Goldsboro, I think (just found out Goldsboro had a great barbecue joint as early as the 1930's--what is it with these North Carolinian small towns? Durham and Raleigh are far bigger and ostensibly more significant communities than Goldsboro and Chapel Hill, and there reportedly isn't a decent barbecue joint between them). Wilber's is tenderer and juicier, but that hickory flavor--as if they had smoked my tongue in hickory for hours I can't get rid of the memory of it; it's like if I died and was buried, people would pause by my grave to salivate.

Crisp hush puppies the size of golf balls and a hell of a lot sweeter; amazing baked beans; fries from potatoes cut with skin on and cooked a dark brown; a pound cake with cream cheese icing to die for, served hot with a crisp crust rounding the edges. I don't know if it gets any better than this.

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